Overview

Dormancy is your houseplants’ quiet season—a natural slowdown that protects their energy. Learn how to adjust light, water, and routines so your plants (and you) can rest well and rebound strong in spring.

Equipment

• Smoker
• Thermometer

Wood

Post oak

What dormancy looks like indoors

Dormancy is a temporary rest period when many plants slow growth, conserve energy, and pause flowering or leaf production in response to shorter days and cooler, drier air. You might notice smaller leaves, longer gaps between new growth, pale or shed leaves on older stems, or soil staying damp longer because roots are less active. Dormancy is not the same as decline. A few yellowing leaves, slowed vines, or a compact rosette that just holds steady can be normal from late fall through winter. True distress looks different: sudden widespread wilt with soggy soil, a sour smell, soft stems, or pests. When in doubt, scale back water first, increase light if you can, and give the plant time rather than chasing constant fixes.

Why rest matters (and how it can support you, too)

Rest lets plants repair roots, strengthen tissues, and store carbohydrates for a vigorous spring. Pushing growth with heavy watering or fertilizer in low light often causes stretched, weak stems and root rot, while gentle restraint builds long-term health. Let this season set your pace as well. Invite a five-minute plant check ritual: breathe in the clean scent of damp soil, notice the cooler light on your windowsill, wipe a leaf, and write one line about what you see. Small pauses anchor the day and make care feel calm rather than rushed.

Seasonal adjustments: light, water, temperature, humidity

Light: Move plants closer to their brightest safe window. Most foliage prefers bright, indirect light near east or south-facing windows; sheer curtains soften hot midday sun. If daylight is limited, add an LED grow light 6–12 inches above foliage for 10–12 hours daily on a timer. Rotate pots every two weeks to keep growth even. Water: Cooler rooms and lower light mean slower drying. Check with your finger 1–2 inches down; water only when the mix is dry to that depth for aroids (Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron hederaceum) and Ficus elastica. Succulents and cacti often want a full dry-out and a deep drink every 3–5 weeks. Ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata) prefer consistently lightly moist soil—never soggy. Use room‑temperature water and let excess drain fully; avoid leaving water in saucers. Temperature: Most tropical houseplants are happiest at 60–75°F (16–24°C) in winter nights and days. Keep them away from cold drafts, frequently opened doors, and hot air from radiators or vents. Some cacti and holiday bloomers set buds better with a cooler 50–60°F (10–16°C) night rest, provided roots stay dry. Humidity: Aim for 40–50% relative humidity for most, 50–60% for ferns and Calathea/Goeppertia. Group plants together, place pots on pebble trays with water below the pot base, or run a cleaned ultrasonic humidifier several feet away. Misting offers only brief relief and can encourage spotting on some leaves in cool rooms. Soil: Stick with quick‑draining mixes while growth is slow. For aroids, use a chunky blend of equal parts high‑quality potting mix, fine bark, and perlite or pumice. For cacti/succulents, use cactus mix with extra pumice. For ferns and African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha), use airy, moisture‑retentive blends with peat or coco coir plus perlite. Avoid repotting to larger containers now; big pots stay wet too long in winter.

Feeding, pruning, and repotting during rest

Fertilizer: Pause feeding until you see clear new growth in late winter or spring. If a plant actively flowers through winter (African violets, some Hoyas), you can feed at quarter to half strength monthly. Pruning: Focus on sanitation, not shaping. Remove yellowed leaves, shriveled stems, or spent flower stalks with clean, sharp shears. Save heavy reshaping for spring when recovery is faster. Repotting: Only repot now if you must treat root rot or severe pest infestations. Otherwise, wait for brighter days. As a tidy refresh, scrape off and replace the top half‑inch of spent mix and wipe leaves gently with a damp cloth to clear dust and improve light capture.

Propagation timing and methods by plant type

Timing: Most cuttings root best when days lengthen. Plan to take cuttings in late winter to spring as growth wakes, unless you can offer steady warmth and bright supplemental light. Aroids (Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Philodendron hederaceum): Take a stem cutting with at least one node and leaf. Root in water, damp perlite, or aroid mix kept lightly moist and warm (70–75°F/21–24°C). Pot on when roots are 2–3 inches long. ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia): Divide rhizomes in spring or root leaflets in perlite, understanding leaf propagation is slow. Allow cut surfaces to dry for a day before planting. Snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata): Root leaf sections in water or gritty mix. Note that variegated forms may revert to green from leaf cuttings; division preserves variegation. Hoya carnosa: Take 2–3 node cuttings and root in a chunky, lightly moist mix. Provide bright light and avoid overwatering. Ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata): Divide root balls or pot up runners in spring; keep divisions humid and evenly moist. Spore propagation is advanced and slow. Cacti and succulents: Let cut ends callus for several days, then set on gritty mix and mist lightly until roots form. Keep warm and bright, watering sparingly. Bulb- and tuber-formers (Alocasia, Caladium): Divide corms or tubers in spring after dormancy; plant shallowly in a warm, bright spot and water lightly until growth resumes.

Quick references: common houseplants and their rest patterns

Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant): Bright indirect light; water every 10–14 days in winter when the top 2 inches are dry; chunky aroid mix. Growth slows; do not force with fertilizer. Indoors 3–8 ft tall. Toxic to pets (calcium oxalates). Ficus elastica (rubber plant): Bright light with a few hours of gentle sun; let the top 2–3 inches dry between waterings. Reduce watering in winter; avoid cold drafts. Indoors 6–10 ft. Sap can irritate skin; mildly toxic to pets. Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant): Low to bright indirect light; water every 3–4 weeks, letting mix dry fully. Use well‑draining soil with extra perlite. Indoors 2–3 ft. Toxic if chewed; wear gloves if you have sensitive skin. Dracaena trifasciata (snake plant): Low to bright light; water every 3–6 weeks in winter; gritty cactus blend. Indoors 1–4 ft. Mildly toxic to pets. Alocasia x amazonica ‘Polly’ (Alocasia hybrid): Bright indirect, warm (65–80°F/18–27°C). In cool, low light it may drop leaves and rest at the rhizome; keep barely moist, never wet. Indoors 1–3 ft. Toxic to pets. Caladium bicolor (caladium): Deciduous tuber that rests in winter; let foliage die back, stop watering, and store dry tubers at 60–70°F (16–21°C). Replant in spring. Indoors 1–2 ft. Toxic to pets. Nephrolepis exaltata (Boston fern): Bright shade to indirect light; keep evenly moist with higher humidity. Winter growth slows; avoid drying out completely. Indoors 1–3 ft. Non‑toxic to cats and dogs. Saintpaulia ionantha (African violet): Bright filtered light; bottom‑water when the top feels dry; warm, consistent temps. Can bloom year‑round but foliage growth slows in winter. 6–12 in. Non‑toxic to pets. Hoya carnosa (wax plant): Bright light with some morning sun; water when the mix is dry halfway down. Winter is a light rest; do not overwater. Long trailing vines to several feet. Generally non‑toxic to pets. Cacti (e.g., Echinopsis spp.): Bright sun; in winter keep cool and almost dry, watering lightly every 4–6 weeks. Use gritty cactus mix. Sizes vary 4–12 in. Non‑toxic but spines are hazardous.

Simple home routines that support a resting plant corner

Set a weekly plant check on the same day you change towels or brew weekend tea. Walk your windows, feel the soil, empty saucers, and wipe two or three leaves. This gentle loop keeps you connected without turning care into a project. Create a calm perch for resting plants: a stable side table near a bright window, a tray to contain drips, and a small basket for tools. Clear nearby clutter so light can reach foliage and you can enjoy the open space. A clean window, a soft throw, and a chair invite you to sit, notice the winter light, and slow down alongside your plants.

Materials and tools that make winter care easier

A small watering can with a narrow spout, a moisture meter or simply a clean wooden chopstick for soil checks, sharp pruning shears, isopropyl alcohol and soft cloths for leaf cleaning, an LED grow light with a timer, a hygrometer to monitor humidity, a pebble tray or two, an ultrasonic humidifier if your air is very dry, distilled or demineralized water for the humidifier, extra perlite/pumice and fine orchid bark for adjusting soil texture, a notebook or notes app to log watering, sticky traps for early pest detection, and a shallow utility tray or mat to protect surfaces. A small lidded bin or caddy keeps tools tidy and ready.

Safety notes for plants, people, and pets

Many popular plants contain calcium oxalates and are toxic if chewed, including Monstera, Philodendron, Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Alocasia, and Caladium. Keep out of reach of children and pets. Boston fern, African violet, Hoya, and Pilea are generally considered non‑toxic. Cacti spines are a puncture risk even if the plant is non‑toxic. When handling potting mixes, open bags outdoors if possible, avoid inhaling dust, and wash hands. If you have respiratory sensitivities, wear a mask and gloves. Clean humidifiers weekly with manufacturer‑approved solutions and use distilled water to prevent mineral dust; place units away from outlets and never aim mist directly at foliage or walls. Use only UL‑listed grow lights, keep cords tidy and away from water, and give fixtures clearance from curtains and shelves to avoid heat build‑up. Sap from Ficus elastica can irritate skin; protect your hands and eyes when pruning.

A gentle checklist for the restful season

Late fall: Move plants to brighter spots, clean windows, set grow lights and timers, and note approximate winter watering intervals in your journal. Remove weak fertilizer schedules and plan to feed again in spring. Midwinter: Check soil before watering every time, dust leaves, and trim spent growth. Group humidity‑loving plants and top up pebble trays. Watch for pests on the undersides of leaves where warm indoor air favors them. Late winter to early spring: Look for new buds and leaves. Slowly increase watering frequency as mix dries faster. Resume feeding at quarter strength, then half strength after two or three healthy flushes of growth. Plan repotting or propagation once days lengthen and nights warm. Celebrate small wins—one healthy new leaf is real progress.

Notes

• Adjust all schedules to your room’s light, temperature, pot size, and soil; these factors change drying time dramatically.
• If unsure about watering, wait a day and recheck. Slight underwatering in winter is safer than keeping roots wet.
• Pet safety: when ingestion is suspected, contact your veterinarian or a poison control helpline promptly.
• If a plant fully defoliates during dormancy (e.g., some Alocasia and Caladium), keep the root system barely moist and warm; do not discard until spring confirms viability.